Being a huge fan of anchovies – either fresh or salted – I couldn’t resist trying out one of Paul Rankin’s recipes, Caesar Salad with Tabasco Onions. I’m a little confused as to why it’s called Caesar Salad with Tabasco Onions however – shouldn’t that be Cayenne Onions? The Tabasco is in the dressing, not the onion coating. Never mind. . .
Now, there are some salads that make pleasant, mild accompaniments; others that add bright, fresh notes to a dinner, and then there are those that drag you kicking and screaming on a rollercoaster ride of taste sensation. Needless to say, this recipe is one of those salads.
The salty meatiness (or umami) of the anchovies and the slight bitterness of the salad leaves, combined with the sweetness of the red onion, pack a powerful gustatory punch. Texture-wise it’s a winner too – the onions melt, the batter crumbles and the dressed lettuce crunches together in perfect synastry. This is definitely not a salad for the faint of heart however. The magazine suggests chargrilled chicken for a more substantial meal. Personally I suggest it’s a waste of chicken - except as a protein carrier for the dressing. This salad stands on it’s own two feet (not just stands, it practically does a jig).
The mayonnaise I used was a smoked garlic mayonnaise, which I heartily recommend. Other than that the only defect in my attempt was that I didn’t crisp the onions enough. Both batter and onion were nicely cooked, but I think would have been improved with just a little longer in the deep-fryer. Overall this was an excellent recipe and one I’ll be using again.
Caesar Salad with Tabasco Onions
By Paul Rankin, ‘fresh’ Mar 2006
Serves four
1 large Spanish onion
Salt and freshly ground pepper
About 2 Tbsp plain flour
1 tsp cayenne pepper
sunflower oil, for deep-frying
125 ml / 4 fl oz garlic mayonnaise (homemade or store bought)
1 ½ tsp Dijon mustard
2 tsp Worcestershire sauce
10 drops Tabasco sauce
3 canned anchovies, crushed (a garlic press works well)
1 large Cos lettuce
50 gm / 1 ¾ oz Parmesan, freshly grated
Cut the onion in quarter lengthways from root to point. Put in a bowl and sprinkle with a pinch of salt, then separate the pieces with your hands. Set aside two – three minutes, then toss in the flour and cayenne, pressing it into the slices to form a crust.
Heat the oil in a deep-fat fryer to 180°C / 350°F. Drop the onion slices into the hot oil and deep-fry for a minute or two until crisp and golden brown – you may have to do this in batches. Drain well on kitchen paper.
To make the dressing, put the mayonnaise in a small bowl with the mustard, Worcestershire sauce, Tabasco and anchovies, then beat until well mixed. Season to taste. Wash the lettuce and pat dry. Break the bigger outer leaves roughly, keeping the smaller inside ones whole.
Toss with the dressing and two-thirds of the grated Parmesan. Arrange the leaves in the centre of each plate and garnish with the remaining Parmesan and crispy onions to serve.
Total: £6.00 ($10.45) - Spanish onion 25p, Salt & Pepper 5p, flour 5p, cayenne pepper 5p, sunflower oil £1, garlic mayonnaise £1.80, Dijon mustard 7p, Worcestershire sauce 5p, Tabasco sauce 5p, anchovies 20p, Cos lettuce £1.20, Parmesan 60p.
A taste blast well worth the cost.
