Paper Palate

Hoping for an early heatwave to go picnicking, the fresh May edition covers bread, jam, jelly, confits and pickles in several different articles, and tells you how to make your own. I particularly like the look of the jellies – a dab of homemade Apple, Cider & Chilli Jelly sounds the perfect accompaniment for a juicy pork chop.

Anthony Worrall Thompson’s seasonal recipes this month include spring lamb slow-cooked with garlic rosemary and butter beans, plus a couple of things to do with broad beans, mint, and the ever-delicious gooseberry.

Traditional British grub – fish & chips, bangers & mash, pies and more - get a modern take for May Day celebrations, and for those who want something a little more exotic, Sunita Patel offers recipes for authentic Indian curries and other dishes.

Herb of the month is the bay leaf, and the vegetable of the month features British asparagus, alongside an interview with grower Jan Henslow. The cheeseboard showcases the renowned Neal’s Yard Dairy, and Yard cheese tutor Chris George explains their philosophy and the origins of their Borough branch, as well as giving some personal recommendations.

Amusing blooper of the month – the “Food of Love” article (page 12) on the attractions of cooking and cooks, reports Nigella Lawson being found by a Glenfiddich survey as “the sexist UK chef.”

On a more serious note, British beef farmers have lost an estimated £675 million in business since the BSE debacle and the export bans imposed in 1996. The EU has finally agreed to allow the full export of British beef, but is it enough? Fresh investigates the export and import competition problems faced by the UK’s beef farmers.

Rosalind Cooper delivers the lowdown on the versatility of Viognier, a complex and sophisticated grape variety that’s now planted worldwide from France to Argentina to Australia to the USA. There’s also a good handful of cocktail and mocktail recipes for those who want something other than wine.

Finally in ‘Food for Thought,’ William Black, one of the UK’s leading Slow Food advocates, rails against the lazy foreign stereotyping of British food, arguing that “Britain has bounced back from the abyss and found a goodly dollop of gastronomic self-confidence”. Too right! I say.