My Hidden Spot Has Been Discovered!!
I am very torn about $25 and Under column from the New York Times last Wednesday, much like anyone else would be when their favorite local spot is called out by a major news outlet, especially the Times.
There is a propriety that diners feel in regard to the restaurants in their own neighborhood, especially when they happen to be small in stature and sans celebrity chef. These local haunts give those who frequent them not only a sense of belonging, but a sense of discovery, even if the food isn’t all that wonderful. You’re one of the lucky ones “in the know,” and that’s what counts. When the restaurant happens to be outstanding, all the better. When your local favorite is given a good bit of press, it’s almost like a trust has been betrayed … the secret is out. But yet, at the same time, it’s nice to know that your favorite spot is getting the attention you always knew it deserved. And so you are left torn. Such has occurred with me and Marlow & Sons.
To anyone living in the Williamsburg (New York) area, specifically the Southern part, Marlow & Sons isn’t all that much of a secret, although I think we all assumed no one from out of the borough would bother coming. As the New York Times pointed out, Marlow & Sons has been around for over 2 years and is a spin-off of the rather famous, at least very locally, Diner (they adjoin and, as I understand it, share some resources).
When it first opened, as the NY Times article alludes to, we all figured it would be sort of a wine bar and grocery spot; a place to get a good glass with a meat and cheese plate, plus a baguette for the morning. This isn’t totally what it is or rather, has become.
The front store doesn’t really seem to be intended as a place to grocery shop, unless you’re looking for something really specialized. It is, though, a great place to grab a quick bite (there are pre-made sandwiches, scones, biscuits, egg burgers and tons of other treats readily available) and a cup of coffee any time of day. Plus, a fact which the Times fails to mention and I’m loathe to admit to you all, Marlow sets up seat-yourself-tables in front of the store when the weather is nice.
As it became more popular, though, the chef seems to have branched out and the menu has gotten larger. The restaurant part of Marlow, in the back, still serves the wonderful oysters, meats and cheeses that enticed me in the beginning, but they’ve added on quite a bit, as was mentioned in the Times, additions which are all very much welcome.
From the weekly clam dishes to the ever-changing crostini (I’ve had the white bean, as well as an eggplant caviar and a Manchego and almond topping), it’s all excellent. What’s more, Marlow & Sons (and Diner, for that matter) does an wonderful job of using seasonal and local ingredients and the menu is ever changing to reflect this attention to detail. They don’t bother with terribly mealy tomatoes in the dead of winter, but focus on other vegetables that make sense for the particular time of year like kale, spinach, and radicchio. And I can guarantee that we’ll be seeing plenty of ramps, morels, and fiddleheads on the menu very soon. I just hope I don’t have to fight the crowds to get to them.
Like so many before me, I fear my little spot may change. I love that it’s a place where neighbors can grab a drink and some snacks. I like the small, seasonal menu. With huge developments going up all over Williamsburg and press that’s coming in here and there, are the lines going to become unbearable? Will we see tomatoes on the menu in January? Of course, I am happy for Mark Firth and Andrew Tarlow as they surely deserve the press and accolades. But I like the fact that their kids run around in the early evening as all their friends stop by to visit and I hope they, as well as myself, always have the space to do just that … hang out with friends. It’s an age-old story, one that I’m sure most anyone who reads this can relate to; dealing with change is nothing new, and deep down, I always knew my Marlow wasn’t all that much of a secret…but it was fun to think it was.
Taking a cue from my fellow poster, here’s a run-down of other interesting items the NY Times Dining Section covered last week:
The freaky trend of the Mega Restaurant in New York, by Frank Bruni.
The difficulties faced by African-American chefs.
A different type of green, an organic shop, a tasty cheese and more in the wonderful Food Stuff by Florence Fabricant.
