Paper Palate

Lentils are the unsung heroes of the legume world. They have a rich nutty taste, they cook quickly, and they are versatile. They come in many shapes, sizes and colors. But because they have a tendency to absorb flavors from other foods and spices it is easy to mess them up, in my opinion.

Which is why I’m always careful when I try a new lentil recipe. I have to really look at the ingredients to see if I can determine how well they will go together, and how the lentils will taste once they have absorbed all of the flavors.

The recipe for Faki (Greek Lentil Soup) that I found in Aliza Green’s Beans: More than 200 Delicious, Wholesome Recipes from Around the World looked promising. It looked simple, with few ingredients that are usually readily at hand–the kind of recipe that depends on good quality ingredients.

I especially liked the write-up to the recipe. Green explains the origins of each dish in Beans, with some interesting little pieces of information about some of the ingredients. Here is what she had to say about Faki:

This delicious lentil soup . . . is a popular dish during the Lenten season, when meat is not eaten. Soups similar to this have long been part of the Greek diet. Imported Greek oregano, sold dried on the branch, is highly resinous, with a powerful aroma obtained by plants that have struggled to grow in rocky soil under the rays of a blazing sun. Like wine grapes, the more they struggle, the more flavor they develop.

I could just picture those scrappy little branches of oregano struggling to survive just so they could be plucked out of that rocky soil and sent to America to end up in my soup pot! Actually, I used the oregano I already had in my kitchen, but I’m tempted to go down to Greek Town here in Chicago and see if I can find some of the imported Greek variety.

The recipe was easy to follow, and with very little prep time I had my soup simmering happily on the stove. The simple ingredients provided a heavenly aroma that wafted out of the kitchen in slight waves, light and promising.

And it was delicious. Light and fresh and lemony, the simple ingredients all came together for a symphony of flavors in the bowl. Green is right, each ingredient is absolutely essential to this dish.

I liked it so much that I made it for my brother and his family over the holidays when I went to visit. Everyone raved about it and went back for seconds, even my youngest nephew who rarely tries anything new.

I have made this with black lentils and regular lentils, and it was delicious both times.

Faki (Greek Lentil Soup)

Serves 6 to 8

1 lb. (2 c.) dried brown lentils
4 qts. chicken or vegetable broth
2 c. chopped onion
1 c. diced carrots
1 c sliced celery
1 Tbsp. chopped garlic
1/2 c. tomato sauce
1/2 c. olive oil
1 Tbsp. crumbled dried oregano
salt and pepper
1/4 c. fresh lemon juice (from 1-2 lemons) or red wine vinegar

Place lentils in large soup pot with broth and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for one hour or until tender.

Add onions, carrots, celery, garlic, tomato sauce, olive oil, oregano and salt and pepper to taste. Cook for 30 minutes longer, or until soup is slightly thickened.

Just before serving, stir in the lemon juice or vinegar.