Observer Food Monthly - January 2008


This month’s OFM focusses on ‘eco foodies’ and, as a result, tends to be very light on the recipe front. Disappointing.

Which doesn’t mean there are no recipes … Nigel Slater looks at greens and offers dishes including bean and black cabbage soup, a very tasty looking chicken broth with kale and pork balls and savoy cabbage with juniper and cream.

There’s also a selection of recipes from the Fairtrade Everyday Cookbook. Unfortunately, my recipe isn’t one of those featured, but the choice of dishes ranges from Caribbean banana bread, through to kedgeree and Indian basmati rice pudding.

OFM then devotes many pages to its top 40 eco foodies: people who’ve changed the way we eat in the UK. Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, who graces the cover, receives top spot and also features in an interview. Fearnley-Whittingstall’s latest crusade is against intensively reared (and very cheap) chicken - surely one of the no-brainers of the food world, but, regretfully, an issue which the supermarkets are dragging their heels when it comes to acting.

Recognition is given to people involved in many diverse aspects of the food industry, from the Prince of Wales, through to David Cameron and Anya Hindmarch. Many on the list also feature in interviews.

With all the interviews out the way, there’s a Good Nutrition Guide which looks at the best and worst of a variety of processed foods. Hopefully, the title of the article is ironic. As Britain gets fatter and fatter, perhaps we should be looking for a piece of fruit, rather than the crisps that are least bad for us - and the same could be said for biscuits, cakes, baked beans and tinned spaghetti and pizza.

Hopefully, with Christmas and New Year out the way, the February OFM will provide some more interesting fodder …

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