Paper Palate

I was browsing though the cookbook section at Border’s a few weeks before Christmas when something caught my eye … It was the Tartine cookbook by husband and wife team, Elisabeth Prueitt and Chad Robertson.  I was supposed to be Christmas shopping, but somehow, I managed to stray over into that section.  It was like some strange gravitational force was pulling me closer, and Closer, and CLOSER… 

Um… what was I saying?  Oh yes… the Tartine Cookbook.

That cookbook had been on my “wish list” for quite a while.  Since it was Chrismas time, and I was Christmas shopping, I figured that technically, I had a good excuse to buy it.  After all, ’tis the season to be jolly, and all that.  Having that cookbook sure would’ve made me jolly!  Yeah, I know that’s stretching it a bit, but I wanted that book, darn it!  I had no guarantee that someone else would buy it for me, now did I?  So, I took a few furtive looks around me to make sure no one I knew was watching, and I shoved that sucker right in my basket!

When I got home, later that day, I safely hid… er, stored the book in the linen closet, deep within a stack of bed sheets.  That way, if I did get it for Christmas, I could return one copy and no one would be the wiser. As it turned out, I didn’t get the cookbook, so it was a good thing that I took matters into my own hands!  

The Tartine cookbook is a compilation of recipes from the wildly popular bakery/cafe of the same name located in the San Francisco area.  Prueitt and Robertson are the co-owners, as well as the creative forces, of Tartine. Both are well trained and highly skilled in the culinary arts of pastry and baking, and boast a long list of accomplishments.  The recipes in the book are laid out in a straightforward, easy to follow fashion, with totally droolworthy photos by France Ruffenach. I must admit, I would have bought this book just to look at the stunning pictures!   

With all of the tantalizing choices within its pages, it was difficult to select which one to try first.  There were a multitude of breads, cakes, pastries and other confections to choose from.  I decided on the recipe for Tartine’s quiche.  Tartine’s quiche recipe is set apart from most others by the usage of creme fraiche and a bit of flour in the filling.  I adore creme fraiche and try to always keep some handy.  Prueitt claims that it gives the quiche a smoother, creamier texture and a slight tartness.  Happily, she is right.  It does.

Although this quiche would have been perfectly wonderful had I followed the recipe as written, I had some pretty dejected looking vegetables biding their time in my fridge that I needed to use up, so I decided to add them in.  That’s the great thing about a quiche.  It’s kind of like a salad.  You can pretty much throw anything into it, and it usually comes out great.  Tartine’s recipe was a simple one, so I had lots of room to play - and I did.   I diced up a lonely, old shallot and a few mushrooms and sauteed them in a little butter.  I added them to the filling with fresh spinach and some chunks of leftover Gruyere and mozzarella cheese. 

For the crust, I took the authors’ recommendation and prepared their Flaky Tart Dough.  It is a standard recipe containing just butter, flour, water and salt.  Instructions are given to either prepare the dough by hand or in the food processor.  Guess which version I chose?  The dough came together in seconds in the food processor and I could tell immediately that it would, indeed, be tender and flaky.

The quiche was fabulous, as I knew it would be.  I would definitely make it again, perhaps with some different add-ins next time.  I’m also looking forward to trying many of the other delectable-looking offerings in the book.  If you’re looking for a new cookbook to add to your collection, I can heartily recommend Tartine. 

Quiche
adapted from Tartine

Ingredients:

1 fully baked and cooled 10-inch Flaky Tart Dough (recipe follows)
5 large eggs
3 tbsp. (45 ml) all-purpose flour
1 cup (250 ml) creme fraiche
1 tsp. (5 ml) salt
1/2 tsp. (2 ml) freshly ground black pepper
1 tbsp. (15 ml) fresh chopped thyme

My additions:

1 medium diced shallot, 1 cup chopped button mushrooms and 2 cups fresh spinach sauteed in 2 tbsp. butter.

1/2 cup each of diced Gruyere and mozzarella cheese

Directions:

Have the pie shell ready for filling.  Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F.

Place 1 egg and flour in bowl of a stand mixer or a large mixing bowl and mix at high speed until smooth. Mix in the remaining 4 eggs until blended.

In a medium bowl, whisk the crème fraîche until it is perfectly smooth and then whisk in the milk. Pour the egg mixture through a fine-mesh sieve held over the milk mixture.

Whisk in the salt, pepper and thyme. Add in the sauteed vegetables and cheese.

Pour egg mixture into the baked pastry shell. Place in the oven and bake at 375 degrees F for 10 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 325 degrees F and bake until the filling is just set, about 30 minutes longer.  The center of the quiche should feel slightly firm.

Let quiche cool on a wire rack for at least 20 minutes to allow the custard to set up, so that it will slice neatly. It can be served warm or at room temperature.

Flaky Tart Dough
from Tartine

Makes enough for two 9- or 10-inch tart shells.

1 tsp. (5 ml) salt
2/3 cup (150 ml) very cold water
3 cups plus 2 tablespoons (455 g) all-purpose flour, plus more for work surface
1 cup (2 sticks) plus 5 tablespoons (300 g) very cold unsalted butter, cut into 1-inch pieces

In a small bowl, mix together salt and water. Keep very cold until ready to use.

Place flour and butter in the bowl of a food processor. Pulse briefly until mixture forms large crumbs. Add the salt water mixture and continue pulsing until a dough has just formed but is not smooth.

On a lightly floured work surface, evenly divide dough. Form each piece of dough into a disk about 1 inch thick. Wrap each disk with plastic wrap and chill at least 2 hours and up to overnight.

To line the tart pan or pie dish, place a disk of dough on a lightly floured surface and roll out 1/8 inch thick, rolling from the center.  Lift and rotate dough a quarter turn every few strokes to discourage sticking.  Lightly dust the dough with more flour as needed. 

If lining a pie pan, cut out a circle 2 inches larger than the dish.  If lining a tart pan with a removable bottom, cut out a circle 1 1/2 inches larger.  Carefully transfer the round to the dish/pan, easing it into the bottom and sides, pressing gently into place.  With a sharp knife, trim the dough even with the rim of the dish/pan.

Line the pastry shells with parchment paper and fill with pie weights  (you can also use dried beans.)  For a fully baked shell, bake at 375 degrees F for about 25 minutes, or until the surface looks light brown.  Remove from the oven and remove the parchment paper and weights.  Return to the oven and continue baking until golden brown, about 5 minutes longer.

Cool completely on wire racks before filling.