The Best of the Bakeshops
Although the September issue of Bon Appetit is filled with wonderful things, I’m going to skip to my favorite feature, which is the “Best of the Bakeshops.” This month showcases a selection of goodies that are twists on classics and made all the better for it. Take chocolate-chip cookies, for example. They’ve been all the rage lately, with the New York Times and their 36-hour cookies, but something no one considered was replacing the chocolate chips with brownie chunks. Yes, brownie chunks. The Sweet Pea Bakery & Catering in Phoenix has done just that with their Brownie-Chunk Cookies. As an added bonus, you get two great recipes in one here as you must first make a pan of brownies before you can make the cookies. Don’t think of this as extra work but rather as extra awesomeness. Plus, you use only half a pan of brownies to make the cookies, so that leaves you with half a pan of brownies to fold into homemade ice cream (well that’s what I would do anyway).
If you’re looking for a show-stopper dessert, look no further than Vanilla Bake Shop’s Chocolate Cake with Fleur de Sel Caramel Filling. This cake is made in steps as well, but it’s one delicious step after another, from chocolate cake to caramel filling to chocolate ganache. I found the caramel filling particularly intriguing as it is made differently than most caramels I’ve made it the past, with the addition of crème fraîche or sour cream, which gives it a noticeable tang. Layer cakes always seem impressive, but this one is especially so as four layers of cake are dressed up in caramel and chocolate and accessorized with toasted almonds. Could you honestly ask for anything else other than a fork?
In case you’re wondering how to stay slim while consuming all of these baked goods, this month’s BA also features an article by Melissa Clarke about a food writer’s diet and how to eat well as opposed to plentifully. All I can say to that is good luck with this cake and these cookies lying around…
Chocolate Cake with Fleur de Sel Caramel Filling
CARAMEL FILLING
1 cup sugar
1/4 cup water
2 tablespoons light corn syrup
1/2 cup heavy whipping cream
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, diced
1/4 cup crème fraîche or sour cream
1/2 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
Large pinch of fine fleur de sel* plus additional for assembly
GANACHE FILLING AND FROSTING
1 1/2 pounds bittersweet chocolate, chopped
3 cups heavy whipping cream
CAKE
2 cups sugar
1 3/4 cups all purpose flour
3/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1 1/2 teaspoons baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup whole milk
2 large eggs
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted
1 cup hot water
1 tablespoon instant espresso powder or instant coffee
1 1/4 cups almonds, toasted, coarsely chopped
CARAMEL FILLING
Stir sugar, 1/4 cup water, and corn syrup in deep medium saucepan over low heat until sugar dissolves. Increase heat to medium; cover pan and cook 4 minutes. Uncover; increase heat to high. Boil without stirring until syrup is deep amber, occasionally brushing down pan sides with wet pastry brush, about 6 minutes. Remove from heat. Add cream (mixture will bubble). Whisk in butter, then crème fraîche, lemon juice, and pinch of fleur de sel. Cool completely. DO AHEAD: Can be made 3 days ahead. Cover and chill. Bring to room temperature before using.
GANACHE FILLING AND FROSTING
Place chocolate in large bowl. Bring cream to simmer in medium saucepan. Pour cream over chocolate; let soften 1 minute. Whisk until chocolate is smooth. Cool, then cover and chill overnight. DO AHEAD: Ganache can be made 3 days ahead. Keep chilled. Bring to room temperature before using.
CAKE
Position rack in center of oven and preheat to 350°F. Butter two 9-inch-diameter cake pans with 2-inch-high sides. Line bottom of each with parchment paper; butter paper and dust pan with flour.
Sift sugar, flour, cocoa powder, baking powder, baking soda, and salt into large bowl. Add milk, eggs, and melted butter. Using electric mixer, beat at low speed until blended. Increase speed and beat 2 minutes. Stir 1 cup hot water and espresso powder in small bowl to dissolve. Add to batter; beat until blended (batter will be thin). Divide batter between pans (about 3 cups each).
Bake cakes until tester inserted into center comes out clean, about 32 minutes. Cool cakes in pans on racks 10 minutes. Cut around cakes; turn out onto racks. Peel off parchment and cool completely.
Using long serrated knife, cut each cake horizontally in half. Place 1 layer on platter; spread with 1/2 cup room-temperature ganache. Spoon 3/4 cup ganache into pastry bag fitted with 1/4-inch plain round tip. Pipe ring of ganache around edge of layer. Spread 1/4 cup room-temperature caramel filling evenly inside ring. Sprinkle caramel with large pinch of fleur de sel, then 1 tablespoon almonds. Top with second cake layer, ganache, ganache ring, caramel filling, fleur de sel, and almonds. Repeat with third cake layer. Top with fourth cake layer, cut side down. Spread remaining ganache over top and sides of cake. Press remaining almonds onto sides. DO AHEAD Can be made 2 days ahead. Cover with cake dome and chill. Let cake stand at room temperature 1 hour.
*A type of sea salt; available at some supermarkets and at specialty foods stores.
