Paper Palate

On the trail of the “Top 50,” our first book was a  collection of recipes written by an authority with an encyclopedic knowledge, no “chi-chi,” no pictures.

Nothing could be more different from that than Ghillie Basan’s Flavours of Morocco. This book could be a picture book, with its gorgeous photography by Peter Cassidy: you can almost feel the draining heat of the Mediterranean sun, smell the scent of spices in the souk. So, would a coffee-table book be enough to make it to the top list? The answer is NON; it has to be more.

Ghillie Basan certainly knows her stuff, this is a writer’s book; it features essays on customs and traditions, not heavy issues but informative pieces - after all, this book is destined for the kitchen. Talking about kitchen, what about the recipes?

I will not claim that I am an expert in Moroccan food, but my grandfather came from Essouira, and as a child during the holidays I enjoyed couscous, spicy food, and sweet, sweet cakes. This book has it all kemia: small tasty starters, breads, tagines and couscous, roasts, kebabs, grilled fish, spicy vegetables, and sweet, sweet desserts. The recipes are sensual and exotic, simple to follow, expertly explained. That is what makes this book, this is why it reached the top - it takes the reader by the hand through unfamiliar territory, guiding you through every step until you feel home, and you want to try more and more recipes. In a way it is what happened to me. I could not stop trying recipes out; I was addicted to the flavours of  Morocco, and I had to stop before it showed on my hips. 

The quest to understand what makes a top-50 book continues. Watch out for My Favourite Indredients by Skye Gyngell next.

Chicken with Chickpeas, Raisins and Red Peppers

Ingredients:

• 1 organic chicken, about 1.5 kg jointed into 6 pieces
• 175g chickpeas, soaked in cold water for at least 6 hours and drained ( I used a tin and adjusted the recipe accordingly)
• 6 onions, finely chopped
• 1-2 cinnamon sticks
• 2 pinches saffron fronds
• 1 teaspoon sea salt
• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 2 red peppers
• 3-4 tablespoons golden raisins or sultanas
• 2 tablespoons ghee or butter
• A bunch of fresh flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
• 1 lemon, cut into wedges to serve
• Bread or plain buttery couscous to serve

Method: Put the chicken in a large heavy-based casserole. Add the chickpeas, 2 tablespoons of the chopped onion, the cinnamon sticks and saffron fronds and season with salt and pepper. Pour in enough water to cover the chicken and chickpeas by 2.5 cm and bring it to the boil. Cover the casserole, reduce the heat, and cook gently for about 1 hour checking the water level from time to time.

Meanwhile preheat the oven to 180C (350F)/ gas mark 4. Put the peppers in a baking dish and pour over the oil. Bake them in the preheated oven for about 30 minutes, until they are tender and the skin has buckled slightly. Remove them from the oven and leave them until they are cool enough to handle. Peel off the skin and cut the peppers in half lengthwise, remove the stalk and seeds, and cut the flesh into long strips. Set aside.

Check the chicken and chickpeas, both of which should be tender, and add the rest of the onions with the raisins, butter, and half the parsley. Put the lid back on and cook gently for about 40 minutes, until the onions have almost formed a puree and there is very little liquid left.

Arrange the chicken joints on a serving dish and spoon the chickpeas, raisins, and onions around them. Scatter the strips of pepper over the top and serve with lemon wedges to squeeze over crusty bread or plain buttery couscous.

Serves 4-6

Told you I could not stop trying recipes out, here is the lovely  Honey-glazed pumpkin with spices.