Paper Palate

“It is in the old pots that the best broths are cooked” - if there was such a idiom, most of us would agree with it. It could define Mark Hix’s aim with this book, and would explain why his British Seasonal Food is in the top 50. Chef Hix resurrects traditional recipes, sourcing local food; each chapter is a month.

Sure, if you don’t live in the British Isles you might think “Pwaah, this book is not for me!” But it is. Of course, there will be variations depending on cultures and the weather, but this brilliant cookbook, though firmly grounded in the British sea and soil, is universally inspiring.

Each page is packed with nutritional and anecdotal information. Take these “long, slow-cooking beef cuts” called “onglet” in France, “hangersteak” in the US, and Butcher’s steak in the UK because old-school butchers used to keep them for themselves - Hix encourages us to go and ask for  them and turn them into delicious winter feasts. 

Without further ado, let’s take November on the menu: “Mutton, tasty beef bits, natural smoked haddock and beautiful winter chanterelles” are highlighted, other ingredients not to be missed are listed too: leeks. Salsify (bet you always wanted to know what to do with salsifies). Food for free: elderflowers, crabb apples, bet (again) that you have  dreamt of diving into the bushes . . . and coming out with comestibles. All turned into a list of delicious recipes. I agree it might take a little humph to decide to go with mutton - after all is has not got such a good reputation - but it is worth it.

Mister Hix, next time you need a guest around your table to make up the numbers, don’t hesitate to call upon me. Dear Reader, next time you are looking for a present for a lover of cookbooks and want to avoid the latest celebrity bubbling, this book deserves to be on your list.

Mark Hix’s British Seasonal Food is published by Quadrille Publishing Limited. Next week I am going East, with Madhur Jaffrey and her Ultimate Curry Bible.

Creamed Arbroath Smokies with Soft-Boiled Duck’s Egg

If you can’t get Arbroath smokies, poach and lightly flake some haddock.

• 2 Arbroath smokies
• Milk for poaching if using smoked haddock
• A couple of good knobs of butter
• 1 leek, halved, finely shredded and washed
• 250-300ml double cream
• 4 duck’s eggs
• 1 tablespoon chopped parsley
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Check the fish carefully for any pin-bones, removing any you find. If using smoked haddock, poach it in gently simmering milk or water to cover for 3-4 minutes, then drain and break up the flesh into fairly large pieces.

Heat the butter in a pan and gently cook the leek for 3-4 minutes until soft, then add the cream and fish.

Season lightly and simmer until the cream has reduced down and is just coating the fish. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary.

Meanwhile, soft-boil the duck’s eggs by carefully lowering them into a pan of simmering water and cooking gently for 5 minutes. Briefly refresh in cold water until the eggs are cool enough to handle, then remove and carefully peel.

Divide the creamed fish and leek among warm plates and sprinkle with the chopped parsley. Carefully cut the soft-boiled duck’s eggs in half and place one on each serving. Grind over a little pepper and serve at once.