Top 50 Fridays, Featuring “Decadence”
For weeks now, I have been trying to discover why one book rather than another makes it on a “Best List.” Some books I have struggled with, but very few have been as obvious as this one. Of course, it does depend on who is deciding the list; this is the reason why the Independent best 50 cookbooks was so interesting: several respected individuals gave their opinion and first choice. I bet you “Decadence” by Philip Johnson was on everybody’s pre-selection.
You know it immediately when something works, when it is quality, and that is the feeling you get with “Decadence.” The rich burgundy cover draws you in; open it and you get hit by a chapter on chocolate dessert: simple, accessible recipes, yet difficult enough that you need a chef to take you by the hand to tell you exactly what to do, such as with the “Chocolate fondants with mint chocolate ice cream.” I kNoooW, just wait….
Next comes “warm wonders:” recipes chosen to transport you in the cosy corner of your sweet memories; puddings, clafoutis, cobblers, crumbles huummmm. But since Philip Johnson lives and works in Brisbane-Australia, cool afters also have their place. What about Expresso & Cognac mousse from “cool and composed” chapter? We could make that easily; that reminds me to tell you that there is a chapter dedicated to ice-cream recipes.
Lately I have been a stickler for in-season food, therefore I will leave you with the recipe for Mandarin Tart from the Patisserie section, but before I go, I should add that there is also a chapter on special effects, basics are explained, nothing is left to chance with a good glossary and a very complete index.
Mandarin Tart
300ml (10-1/2 fl oz)freshly squeezed mandarin juice strained
150 gm (5-1/2 oz or 2/3 cup) caster sugar
200mls (7-1/2 fl oz) pouring cream (whipping)
6 eggs
24 x 4cm blind-baked sweet shortcrust pastry case
Mandarin Jelly
300ml (10-1/2 fl oz) freshly squeezed mandarin juice, strained
4 gelatine leaves, soaked in water and squeezed out
50 (1-3/4 oz or 1/4 cup) gms caster sugar
Preheat the oven to 110ºC (225ºF/Gas ½).
Put the mandarin juice in a small saucepan over medium heat. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer until reduced by two-thirds. Remove from the heat, add the sugar and stir until the sugar has dissolved. Set aside to cool.
In a bowl, lightly whisk together the cream and eggs. Whisk in the reduced mandarin juice until well combined. Strain the mixture through a fine sieve into a pouring jug, then carefully pour into the blind-baked pastry case. Bake for 55 minutes, or until set. Allow to cool for 10 minutes, then refrigerate until cold.
To make the mandarin jelly, heat 100 ml of the mandarin juice in a small saucepan over low heat. Remove from the heat, whisk in the softened gelatine and stir to completely dissolve. Return to low heat. Add the sugar and remaining mandarin juice and stir until the sugar has dissolved. Remove from the heat and refrigerate until the jelly is just cold – do not allow to set.
Pour an even layer of jelly over the tart, then carefully return to the refrigerator for several hours until the jelly has set. Cut into wedges and serve.
Photo from P. Johnson e’cco website. Book published by Murdoch books
